Another great video from the Smiley's documenting our fifty's classic climb up Mt. Alberta from last summer. Currently there in Alaska tackling some of the harder fifty classics, for more info www.smileysproject.com
Mt Alberta's Japanese Route from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.
Friday, May 17, 2013
Saturday, April 13, 2013
Friday, April 12, 2013
With just barley enough time to get a route plan together we tossed our self's into the mix and things started up. It took about 5 seconds to realize that this event was very very well organized and well funded almost to the point of disbelief. Heli Putz, Patrick Tritscher, Carina Brunnauer, Martin Steinbach, the judges, the representatives from Atomic, RedBull, Sunto and other sponsors had things dialed, it really felt like the 28th edition.
a fine line. For an event to encompass all of what it means to be free in the mountains is really a huge progression not just in skimo but in sports in general. To be out there with friends pushing limits and realizing new potential doing exactly what you naturally would do creates an atmosphere like no other. Its only a matter of time before the potential of this format is fully realized.
To fit all our experiences from the weekend would be much to long so I will concentrate on one of our highlights during the event.
|Red: Ski/down climb Yellow: Abseil|
slinging a big rock with some cord.
We had guessed our 60m rope would do the trick and upon Mark cresting the edge we were lucky to save some time and do it in one abseil.
From here we enjoyed some even better turns and could open her up now being out of the no fall zone.
|Mcnab shredding out the last few turns onto the glacier.|
Posted by Reiner Thoni at 9:01 AM
Saturday, March 9, 2013
Its seems like a far fetched dream to have a competition that encompasses all that makes for a perfect day of skiing in the mountains. A format that encompasses all aspects of route assessment, risk assessment, group dynamics, aesthetics, variety, technicality, vertical skied and of course finding those beautiful un tracked lines. Atomic has partnered up with Kilian Jornet and taken this bold step in creating a completely new format of skimountaineering competition that does just this. Welcome the inaugural Atomic WayMaker.With the nature of this event it is limited to 8 teams of 3 selected by the organizers to meet there criteria of having the strongest possible teams. Andrew Mcnab, Mark Smiley, and my self applied knowing that the competition was fierce for those 8 spots, we named the team United states of Canada. Having worked together in the past we knew each member was well suited for this event and we could have a competitive team however we knew it was still a long shot to get in.
|Assent up West ridge, descent down North Face.|
The jury making these calls and the ones who each team will need to impress consists of;
Heli Putz, Dachstein mountain guide, organizer and head judge of the event.
Hannes Arch, Red Bull Air Race World Champion and BASE jumper.
Beat Kammerlander, a native of the Voralberg region of Austria, alpine all-rounder and one of the world's best sports climbers.
Andreas "Ringo" Ringhofer, the most successful Austrian athlete in the Ski Mountaineering World Cup.
Matthias "Hauni" Haunholder – a member of the Atomic International Freeski Team and one of the Invited Riders at the Freeride World Tour.
For more info see,
Thursday, February 28, 2013
A month of racing in Europe, 12 races including 2 world cups, a grand course race and a world championship my body's systems have been tested. At times I ponder my sanity "why would I inflict this upon myself" "this is fundamentally crazy" but then the light shines in and I realize it just fits. My soul yearns for the challenge of pushing harder and longer and these are the perfect playing grounds. Its a special place set up by organizers and military where everyone inadvertently creates an opportunity to test and push there limit.
|Racing in very cold wet and windy conditions|
|Killian at the 2013 individual world championships one of the top endurance athletes in the world.|
|William Bon Mardion standing tall above Matheo and Killian with an extra 25kgs (55lbs) of body weight and 4-7 years.|
For me Ski mountaineering remains a challenge to reach my potential and a vehicle for moving fast and efficient in the mountains. The placing at races and more importantly time off the leaders gives a gauge to my progress.
|Starting our for the Relay. I'm the red and florescent green.|
into great views
|ho ho ho|
Ohh and there might be a few other things.... I can leave that up to your imagination.
Now with lots of ideas to report on, amazing aesthetic couloir skiing and some more free time it should equal more blog posts!
Twitter feed always has updates.
Thursday, December 13, 2012
Keeping up on nutrition is an essential part in maintaining a peak physical and mental state. Unfortunately while alpine climbing or skiing you cant just open the fridge and make a salad in fact there are times where if you stop moving you will simply die. We are very vulnerable out there and that's why its important to have the best gear but also the best food!
|Fueling up on a living foods bar en route to Mt. Robsons NF|
These foods are instant to prepare, high in calories and nutrition but low in weight. They pack a punch helping achieve sustained energy, mental clarity and overall nutrition on the mountain.
Carbohydrates - replacing the glycogen reserves - 4cal/gramLets start with Couscous, it packs easy, is more nutritious then pasta and prepares instantly making it a corner stone carbohydrate for replacing glycogen reserves in the muscles. When on longer trips where variety is important or with people who are gluten intolerant/celiac steamed quinoa and millet also work but are more expensive and not as readily available. Western couscous variety's are pre steamed so you just need to add hot water and wait 5 min. Casbah sells flavored variety's in 7 oz (200g) bags/box's with flavors like, Lemon Spinach, Wild Forest Mushroom, Roasted Garlic and Olive Oil or Nuts, Currants and Spice. These are organic, simple but healthy meals that you can purchase for under 5 dollars and all that is lacking when compared to freeze dried packaged dinners is a bunch of ingredients that you cant pronounce plus the extra dollars. Its no wonder Conrad Ankor said couscous, couscous, cousous and more couscous when asked what he was eating for dinner on there 12 day assault of the sharks fin on Meru Central's (6310m) massive east face wall. Put simply it works.... Add organic freeze dried packages of mashed potatoes for variety and difference in consistency.
|Meru Central's (6310m) E face "sharks fin" in red.|
Now your probably wondering... right just eat couscous with some potatoes and you will be prancing up the mountain. Well to be honest you have 1/3 of what you need and are missing complete proteins, certain fats and vital minerals and vitamins. Like an orchestra you need all your members in order to realize the magic.
|Ian Gale on an early Wapta speed attempt. High RPM Carbs at work|
Proteins - rebuilding and sustained energy 4cal/gramAll the food mentioned in this blog post will contain a certain amount of protein but to ensure complete proteins and enough to aid in recovery I like to fix up a special bag. Garden of life makes an exceptional organic Raw sprouted protein that with its natural enzymes makes its very easy to digest. Also added are sprouts, cereal grass juices, fruits, spirulina, chlorella along with probiotics, fat-soluble vitamins and minerals. This makes it a very special bag that supports your nutrition in many ways while remaining extremely light. To bulk it up a little I sometimes add hemp seeds which are also high in complete proteins.
|Recovery mode on. Ian gale, Jeff Colvin and Julie Matteau after skiing the N. twin|
Fats 9cal/gramFat is vital to our survival and is the highest calorie to weight food component so its definitely a key part of the package. During a bout of low intensity exercise of long duration fatty acid oxidation can contribute 50per cent of the energy expenditure. The rest of the energy must come from carbs and the higher the intensity the more carbs are needed. Luckily a large part of mountaineering is low intensity and high fat foods can be readily utilized.
|Topping out on Robson at sunset via NF fatty acid oxidation in full swing|
|Jeff on the upper reaches of Mt. Sir Arthur Meagan long spring day.|
Vitamins and Minerals - minimal weight maximum results
I love making hot soup and taking a pack of 6 organic veggie bouillon cubs it supplies you with a tone of minerals. Add some spinach couscous and coconut oil improving texture and more flavor. I also like to take rock salt to add to food and water for improved hydration and taste.
Testing many brands I find it very important to find a multi vitamin that is raw with enzymes to allow maximum absorption. GOL seems to put the most emphasis on maximum absorption and has a couple products that meet up to the test, Living Multi along with the perfect food greens formula. I also like to take Wobenzum to help ensure joint health especially for those long descents with big packs.
Additional well balanced foods 60-70% carb, 15-20% fat, 15-20% protein.
For breakfast I turn to Oatmeal and to avoid starting the stove up in the morning I prepare it the night before and let it soak over night in a sealed container inside the bivi. Containing 70% carbs 15% fat 15% protein it is well balanced but I like to add some special bag mix to it and let it all soak together for improved taste and nutrition. Raisins and nuts are also a great addition.
Lunch time doesn't really exist while on the mountain as it's important to fuel the body consistently through out the day. I fill my chest pockets with GOL living food bars I like to eat about 1/2 a bar per hour. Sweetened with honey they contain powerful antioxidants with antiseptic and antibacterial properties and along with many other organic wholesome ingredients (including Fiber) they make for a perfect go to bar that sits well in the stomach and keeps you regular. When the opportunity arises to put the pack down I will eat some nuts and even whip up a quick batch of soup if there is enough time. I always keep a couple emergency gels in my waist pocket on my pack.
|Out house at Mt. Alberta Hut|
Finally for further hydration and immunity boost I like to brew up some echinacea tea with rock salt.
Now lets lay this all out on a table for you to see what I would take on a 3 day mission.
2 Casbah packages of couscous
1 package freeze dried mashed potatoes
1 bag with a chunk of coconut oil
8-10 living food bars
1 bag of Raw sprouted protein or meal (6 servings), chia and hemp seeds
1 bag of nuts
1 bag of oat meal including raisens
6 organic veggie boulioun cubs
small amount of rock salt
bag with Living Multi, perfect food greens formula and Wobenzum.
3 days of thriving, lets go climb a mountain!
Thursday, November 1, 2012
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
The first day went as planned we hiked up to Burg lake froze our feet crossing the river then climbed 800 meters up some fifth class rock covered in snow and ice.
Finally the summit was in sight and with it came some very intense winds making our stay on the short side. Strapping on headlamps and some extra layers we headed down in search of some softer snow to dig a cave.
This seemed amazing to me that this wolverine actually had a habit of scouring the higher reaches of Robson to find the body's of perished climbers. Having read about accounts where parks rescue would follow the wolverine tracks leading to the body we hoped that this was not the case.
Photos: Andreas Thoni
Posted by Reiner Thoni at 2:51 PM