Committed series. Mt Alberta's Japanese Route.

Another great video from the Smiley's documenting our fifty's classic climb up Mt. Alberta from last summer.  Currently there in Alaska tackling some of the harder fifty classics, for more info www.smileysproject.com

Mt Alberta's Japanese Route from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.

Full length event clip - Atomic Waymaker 2013

See below for Waymaker blog post.

Unreal Weekend in the Mountains- The Atomic Waymaker

 Our team United Stats of Canada went into the waymaker with out high expectations but with a sense of adventure and the goal to do the best we could.  There were many unknowns and it seemed a challenge not only to compete but to organize such a logistically challenging event.   We came 3 days early to get a feel for the area and after 2 days of scouting in white out conditions we finally got a chance to see the Dachstien Masif.  An impressive sight when you have rolling hills radically transforming into sharp spires of lime stone jolting up into the heavens.

 With just barley enough time to get a route plan together we tossed our self's into the mix and things started up.  It took about 5 seconds to realize that this event was very very well organized and well funded almost to the point of disbelief.  Heli Putz, Patrick Tritscher, Carina Brunnauer, Martin Steinbach, the judges, the representatives from Atomic, RedBull, Sunto and other sponsors had things dialed, it really felt like the 28th edition. 

We spent the day introducing the teams talking about the idea of the event and going over electronics, mandatory gear and route planning.  With big inspirations like Kilian supporting the event one could not help but imagine images of his movie a fine line.  For an event to encompass all of what it means to be free in the mountains is really a huge progression not just in skimo but in sports in general. To be out there with friends pushing limits and realizing new potential doing exactly what you naturally would do creates an atmosphere like no other.  Its only a matter of time before the potential of this format is fully realized.

During the event it was evident that the white out conditions would change the game and while at first disappointed it soon became evident that it added to the challenge and experience.  The draw back to the low vis was having the helicopter grounded and film crews on foot.  This however did not stop them and you would see random camramen/women in the highest reaches of the Dachstien clinging to the edge of a cliff to get there shots.  Once compiled despite all odds they were still able to come up with a great movie documenting the event.

To fit all our experiences from the weekend would be much to long so I will concentrate on one of our highlights during the event. 

Red: Ski/down climb Yellow: Abseil

This 45-50 degree powder chalked couliar with a abseil half way down was one of our main objectives for day 2.  It was accessed from skiing off the summit to the lookers left.  The top had a steep narrow skiable strip that ran out onto some rock bands which was negotiated by down climbing.

This brought us to the first section of great skiing and with big smiles on our faces we approached the the top of the abseil.

From here we burnt some time digging and looking for an appropriate anchor.  With no ice, lack of good horns and snow quality not suitable for a bollard or deadman we decided on digging out and
slinging a big rock with some cord.

We had guessed our 60m rope would do the trick and upon Mark cresting the edge we were lucky to save some time and do it in one abseil. 

 

From here we  enjoyed some even better turns and could open her up now being out of the no fall zone. 

Mcnab shredding out the last few turns onto the glacier.

  Our next assent was to bring us to the high point of the Dachstien but due to increasingly poor conditions we got the call and we stopped 200m short of the top.  Safety is number one and it was good to see the organizers make the call once conditions deteriorated.  Having completed most of our day every one was able to realize some really good skiing and now have some things to come back for!

I cant be thank full enough to be part of such a great team.  Andrew and Mark bring to the table so many skills it would be impossible to ask for better partners.  It was an honer to represent North America and I think the team name really describes the tight nit community we have.  Now if only our legal system would let us have some fun ;)

Atomic Waymaker - New format of Skimo Competition!

Its seems like a far fetched dream to have a competition that encompasses all that makes for a perfect day of skiing in the mountains.  A format that encompasses all aspects of route assessment, risk assessment, group dynamics, aesthetics, variety, technicality, vertical skied and of course finding those beautiful un tracked lines.  Atomic has partnered up with Kilian Jornet and taken this bold step in creating a completely new format of skimountaineering competition that does just this.  Welcome the inaugural Atomic WayMaker.

  With the nature of this event it is limited to 8 teams of 3 selected by the organizers to meet there criteria of having the strongest possible teams.  Andrew Mcnab, Mark Smiley, and my self applied knowing that the competition was fierce for those 8 spots, we named the team United states of Canada.  Having worked together in the past we knew each member was well suited for this event and we could have a competitive team however we knew it was still a long shot to get in.

3 days ago we got the good news and we are very excited to take part in this historical event.  Now its on to focusing and preparing our self's to preform at our best next month.  The interesting part about this event is that the focus on training is very broad covering everything from building quick efficient anchors to executing that one killer photo with efficiently and creativity.  We will be studying the maps and we plan to head down 5 days early to scout out routes and really get a feel for the area.  Each day has a start and end point with an allotted amount of time (9hrs) to do any variation within the boundaries of the event.

Each team must submit a route plan to be approved before starting out on day 1.  Once approved the teams must stick to the plan unless something like weather changes and the risk becomes to high.  Suunto has been very generous and donated new GPS watch's to the athletes so the judges can watch every move live.  Cell phones from Redbull mobile will allow each team to make mandatory reports/check ins during the day. On each climb and descent during the race it is mandatory to take a photo to submit to the judges edited with some text describing the route.

Assent up West ridge, descent down North Face.

Adhering to strict rules for safety measures a team will be disqualified if they are endangering them self's or others during the competition.

The jury making these calls and the ones who each team will need to impress consists of;

Heli Putz, Dachstein mountain guide, organizer and head judge of the event.

Hannes Arch, Red Bull Air Race World Champion and BASE jumper.

Beat Kammerlander, a native of the Voralberg region of Austria, alpine all-rounder and one of the world's best sports climbers.

Andreas "Ringo" Ringhofer, the most successful Austrian athlete in the Ski Mountaineering World Cup.

Matthias "Hauni" Haunholder – a member of the Atomic International Freeski Team and one of the Invited Riders at the Freeride World Tour.

For more info see,

http://www.atomicwaymaker.com/event.php?lang=ENhttp://www.atomicwaymaker.com/event.php?lang=EN

Europe

A month of racing in Europe, 12 races including 2 world cups, a grand course race and a world championship my body's systems have been tested.  At times I ponder my sanity "why would I inflict this upon myself" "this is fundamentally crazy" but then the light shines in and I realize it just fits.  My soul yearns for the challenge of pushing harder and longer and these are the perfect playing grounds.  Its a special place set up by organizers and military where everyone inadvertently creates an opportunity to test and push there limit.

Racing in very cold wet and windy conditions

 The competition in these races is fierce leaving even the best athletes (some of the highest ever recorded V02 max) fighting for podium.  This is likely why athletes like Kilian Jornet still compete as its a challenge that when met allows you the ultimate potential for moving fast in the mountains.

Killian at the 2013 individual world championships one of the top endurance athletes in the world.

Every one has life ambitions whether that be gardening or becoming a politician you have to put in the time to reach your full potential.  Moving towards skimountaineering from another sport is much like moving from pianio to the chello.  One has the basic frame work to excel giving a good jump on what some say takes 10,000 hours or ten years to reach the cutting edge.  In order to build a world champion the best chance is to start young so that there mastery comes in there physiological peak.  This however does not allways hold true and its inspiring to see older athletes come out of the wood work and become world champions especially with a weight of 82kg.   It just goes to show that sure there are ideals but these ideals only create a psychological barrier waiting to be crushed by some one like William Bon Mardion.

William Bon Mardion standing tall above Matheo and Killian with an extra 25kgs (55lbs) of body weight and 4-7 years.

Three years ago many would have doubted his true potential but there is a take home message - your true potential can only be unlocked by you and no matter your age shape or size the potential while unknown to the world awaits.  It might not bring you to be a world champion but the happiness from achieving it can make you feel like one.

For me Ski mountaineering remains a challenge to reach my potential and a vehicle for moving fast and efficient in the mountains.  The placing at races and more importantly time off the leaders gives a gauge to my progress.  

Starting our for the Relay. I'm the red and florescent green.

Its been 5 years now and there have been steady increases however the biggest was in 2011/12.  This year has seen increases and some good placings but living in Europe I have learnt allot about what it takes to reach higher and higher levels.  Its exitting and motivating to think about whats possible but also hard to not get to distracted by the many other great avenue's in life!  Luckily the work put into Skimo racing can be translated...

into great views

 taking naps,

 and dressing up like santa claws in a skin suit with a harness and via ferrata

ho ho ho

 Ohh and there might be a few other things.... I can leave that up to your imagination.

Now with lots of ideas to report on, amazing aesthetic couloir skiing and some more free time it should equal more blog posts!

Twitter feed always has updates.

"Fast and Light" Plant Based Nutrition for Mountaineering

Keeping up on nutrition is an essential part in maintaining a peak physical and mental state.   Unfortunately while alpine climbing or skiing you cant just open the fridge and make a salad in fact there are times where if you stop moving you will simply die.  We are very vulnerable out there and that's why its important to have the best gear but also the best food!

Fueling up on a living foods bar en route to Mt. Robsons NF

Through out the years I have tried meat/dairy I have tried taking that one Super duper duper food but through trial and error its become very clear to me that a well balanced plant based diet works best on the mountain.  Ultimately its not the ideal diet however when light and fast are the highest priority's there are some sacrifices to be made but with the right combination these sacrifices can be minimized.

These foods are instant to prepare, high in calories and nutrition but low in weight.  They pack a punch helping achieve sustained energy, mental clarity and overall nutrition on the mountain.

Carbohydrates - replacing the glycogen reserves - 4cal/gram

Lets start with Couscous, it packs easy, is more nutritious then pasta and prepares instantly making it a corner stone carbohydrate for replacing glycogen reserves in the muscles.  When on longer trips where variety is important or with people who are gluten intolerant/celiac steamed quinoa and millet also work but are more expensive and not as readily available.  Western couscous variety's are pre steamed so you just need to add hot water and wait 5 min.  Casbah sells flavored variety's in 7 oz (200g) bags/box's with flavors like, Lemon Spinach, Wild Forest Mushroom, Roasted Garlic and Olive Oil or Nuts, Currants and Spice.  These are organic, simple but healthy meals that you can purchase for under 5 dollars and all that is lacking when compared to freeze dried packaged dinners is a bunch of ingredients that you cant pronounce plus the extra dollars.  Its no wonder Conrad Ankor said couscous, couscous, cousous and more couscous when asked what he was eating for dinner on there 12 day assault of the sharks fin on Meru Central's (6310m) massive east face wall.  Put simply it works....  Add organic freeze dried packages of mashed potatoes for variety and difference in consistency.

Meru Central's (6310m) E face "sharks fin" in red.

Now your probably wondering... right just eat couscous with some potatoes and you will be prancing up the mountain.  Well to be honest you have 1/3 of what you need and are missing complete proteins, certain fats and vital minerals and vitamins.  Like an orchestra you need all your members in order to realize the magic. 

Ian Gale on an early Wapta speed attempt. High RPM Carbs at work

Proteins - rebuilding and sustained energy 4cal/gram

All the food mentioned in this blog post will contain a certain amount of protein but to ensure complete proteins and enough to aid in recovery I like to fix up a special bag.  Garden of life makes an exceptional organic Raw sprouted protein that with its natural enzymes makes its very easy to digest.  Also added are sprouts, cereal grass juices, fruits, spirulina, chlorella along with probiotics, fat-soluble vitamins and minerals.  This makes it a very special bag that supports your nutrition in many ways while remaining extremely light.  To bulk it up a little I sometimes add hemp seeds which are also high in complete proteins.

Recovery mode on.  Ian gale, Jeff Colvin and Julie Matteau after skiing the N. twin

Fats 9cal/gram

Fat is vital to our survival and is the highest calorie to weight food component so its definitely a key part of the package.  During a bout of low intensity exercise of long duration fatty acid oxidation can contribute 50per cent of the energy expenditure.  The rest of the energy must come from carbs and the higher the intensity the more carbs are needed.  Luckily a large part of mountaineering is low intensity and high fat foods can be readily utilized.

Topping out on Robson at sunset via NF fatty acid oxidation in full swing

Jeff on the upper reaches of Mt. Sir Arthur Meagan long spring day.

My go to fat is nuts and I like to take a variety of organic nuts to take advantage of each unique nutrient profile.  Filling a ziplock bag with brazil nuts, cashews, almonds, walnuts, pine nuts, and filberts you have a quick and easy fat source.  Because most nuts are high in omega 6 fatty acids (inflammatory)  I like to balance it out with chia seeds which are in turn very high in omega 3 ( anti inflammatory). Chia seeds are normally added to my " special bag".  Another fat that I take along is coconut oil to add to my soups and dinners improving the taste and aroma while adding a few extra calories.

Vitamins and Minerals - minimal weight maximum results

Minerals
I love making hot soup and taking a pack of 6 organic veggie bouillon cubs it supplies you with a tone of minerals.  Add some spinach couscous and coconut oil improving texture and more flavor.  I also like to take rock salt to add to food and water for improved hydration and taste. 

Vitamins
Testing many brands I find it very important to find a multi vitamin that is raw with enzymes to allow maximum absorption.  GOL seems to put the most emphasis on maximum absorption and has a couple products that meet up to the test, Living Multi along with the perfect food greens formula.  I also like to take Wobenzum to help ensure joint health especially for those long descents with big packs.

Additional well balanced foods 60-70% carb, 15-20% fat, 15-20% protein.

For breakfast I turn to Oatmeal and to avoid starting the stove up in the morning I prepare it the night before and let it soak over night in a sealed container inside the bivi.  Containing 70% carbs 15% fat 15% protein it is well balanced but I like to add some special bag mix to it and let it all soak together for improved taste and nutrition.  Raisins and nuts are also a great addition.  


Lunch time doesn't really exist while on the mountain as it's important to fuel the body consistently through out the day.  I fill my chest pockets with GOL living food bars I like to eat about 1/2 a bar per hour.  Sweetened with honey they contain powerful antioxidants with antiseptic and antibacterial properties and along with many other organic wholesome ingredients (including Fiber) they make for a perfect go to bar that sits well in the stomach and keeps you regular.  When the opportunity arises to put the pack down I will eat some nuts and even whip up a quick batch of soup if there is enough time.  I always keep a couple emergency gels in my waist pocket on my pack. 

Out house at Mt. Alberta Hut

Finally for further hydration and immunity boost I like to brew up some echinacea tea with rock salt.

Now lets lay this all out on a table for you to see what I would take on a 3 day mission.

 It all fits nicely in a Dynafit skin bag weighing in at a competitive 2kg (4.4lbs)

List of what's inside,

2 Casbah packages of couscous
1  package freeze dried mashed potatoes
1 bag with a chunk of coconut oil
8-10 living food bars
2 gels
1 bag of Raw sprouted protein or meal (6 servings), chia and hemp seeds
1 bag of nuts 
1 bag of oat meal including raisens
 6 organic veggie boulioun cubs
small amount of rock salt
bag with Living Multi,  perfect food greens formula and Wobenzum.

 3 days of thriving, lets go climb a mountain!

Mt Robson's Wishbone Arête

 Great film documenting our climb up Mt Robson's Wishbone Arête.
Watch in High Def and read the trip report while loading, http://smileysproject.blogspot.ca/

Mt Robson's Wishbone Arête from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.

Mt. Robson - North face - Climbing out of Mordor.

If your looking for a massive dark and cold undertaking look no farther the north face of Robson in October is where you want to be!

 This thanksgiving my brother (Andreas) and I decided to work up an appetite and try a full loop of the mountain up the North Face and down the Robson Resplendent Spur.  Leaving the bikes at Kinney lake we planned to hike/climb to the base of the NF sleep, then up over and out the next day.

The first day went as planned we hiked up to Burg lake froze our feet crossing the river then climbed 800 meters up some fifth class rock covered in snow and ice.

At around 4pm we were able to see the sun rise and shortly after we were melting snow on a rock buttress below the ever looming North Face watching it set.

Up at first light we found our selves in a maze of seracs and crevasses with a breakable crust causing things to dramatically slow down.  It was evident that the glacier was now allot more broken then previous trip reports and photos had portrayed.

Watching the NF get lit up by the morning sun we knew we were alittle behind schedule and this day was likely going to turn into two.

Stopping at the base to suit up, hydrate and fuel up one could not hold back the excitement towards the 1000 meters of ice waiting to be climbed.  Starting up the face things went smoothly until we started to hit big sections of brittle ice that would shatter like glass.  The ice underneath was good but this slowed our placements and forced us to go up in a traversing manner to out flank the falling ice.  Making our way up we watched a huge serac break off covering a big section of our tracks and running farther then expected with chunks of ice skipping over crevasses breaking bridges and filling them with debris.   Time seemed to be ambiguous but with fading light we knew we had to keep pushing to hit the crux on the emperor ridge before dark. Part way up Ken Smith from Edmonton happened to be flying around the mountain and was able to take a couple cool shots of us.

 Placing one screw at a time on our running belay we started to make good progress and after about 8 hours we had hit the steeper mixed climbing sections. It was at this point that we noticed how much time was getting eaten up and by the time we crested the ridge we were at sun set flooded by a sea of gold spanning the whole SW face.

From here it was very dramatic as we carfully weaved our way around over and under giant double corniced gargolies with the dark NF on one side and the bright brilliant SW on the other.  Forced into some pretty precarious positions I think both of us were hoping to fall into the light side if we needed to break the others fall.

Finally the summit was in sight and with it came some very intense winds making our stay on the short side.  Strapping on headlamps and some extra layers we headed down in search of some softer snow to dig a cave.

  Stumbling down the summit ridge through the dark with cold piercing spin drift I was happy to have been up there the week before.  Ending up on top of the Kain face we found a more sheltered spot to dig in.  For a couple hours we made some water cooked some food and got horizontal until the light was on the horizon. 

 We continued the rest of our journey down climbing the Kain face and navigating a white out on the dome through more breakable crust.  This brought us to the Robson Resplendent ridge where we noticed we were following very fresh wolverine tracks.  It almost seemed fitting at this point and a stand off with a wolverine seemed like a pretty fair fight considering both of us were armed with two ice tools and crampons. (haha yah right...)

This seemed amazing to me that this wolverine actually had a habit of scouring the higher reaches of Robson to find the body's of perished climbers.  Having read about accounts where parks rescue would follow the wolverine tracks leading to the body we hoped that this was not the case.

Luckily from what we gathered the wolverine was just on a patrol and had made his way back down the glacier leaving us free to head down the rocky spur through some goat trails to the valley bottom and our long awaited bush whack back to the bikes at Kinney lake.  Once we got back to the bikes we for the first time in a couple days were able to reflect on what just happened.  It was an amazing journey from start to finish, some quality bro time and an adventure that will last a life time. 

Photos: Andreas Thoni